The Female Breast In History
The Female Breast and the History of Western Civilization Throughout the
ages, the female body has been revered as a work of art and beauty and as a
source of life, from which all people are born. The breast is one of the most
predominate features of a woman and stands out as a symbol of womanliness and
livelihood. Eroticism, nourishment, abundance, hunger, feminine power, as well
as feminine subservience, are different contradicting themes of the breast
played out in time. Different repeating views of its importance and the way it
should be displayed are used to reflect upon the views of women of the time and
life in Western society in general. At times, it is near-worshipped as a sign of
sexuality, or as a sign of nourishment. Other times it is secured down,
sometimes a sign of the inferiority of women or, conversely, as a sign of
women's liberation and their equality to men. Whether it is intentional or
subconscious, how the breast is viewed throughout history is a direct reflection
of the views of the time. Legends about the breast have appeared in a variety of
cultures. Greek, Indian, and Native American myth all contain stories which
involve biting a breast. For example, Hercules was said to have gotten his
extra-human strength from biting the breast of Hera as an infant. This and other
such stories can be symbolic of an attack on Mother Nature or the earth goddess,
and of man's ability to overcome her (Latteier 146). Women with multiple sets of
breasts are a reoccurring theme in Western society, symbolizing fruitfulness.
The Greek goddess Artenis of Ephesus had nearly twenty breasts on her chest.
Medieval Christian stories often involve the breasts and breast milk of the
Virgin Mary. Next to the blood of Jesus Christ, her milk was the most holy and
most miraculous of fluids, its wonders retold in numerous poems, stories, and
songs (Yalom 44). She was said to have appeared to Saint Barnard when he was
praying and offered him a stream of her breast milk to drink from (46). A fourth
century prostitute was said to have been spared the death penalty by baring her
breasts to the judges, who were so impressed by their beauty that they acquitted
her (20). Minoan society on the island of Crete honored the breast. Women's
clothing was designed to let the breasts show through. Women were placed in high
social positions and power. Their breasts stood for material wealth, political
power, and sacredness. The Minoans are given credit as the first people to use a
corset. They wore bodices that laced below the bust, lifting and exposing the
breasts (Winston). Priestesses known as snake goddesses were notorious for large
breasts and snakes that coiled around their arm, both symbols of their power,
potency mixed with sustenance (Yalom 15). Classic Greek society praised
masculinity and repressed femininity. Women were encouraged to stay at home and
they few little rights. Only the Hetaerae, a special upper class of women, were
able to participate in social activities of men. The apodemos, a linen article
worn by the Hetaerae, was considered to be the first brassiere (Silverman). It,
however, usually flattened the breasts instead of accentuating them, reflecting
the anti-feminine views of the time. With the rise of Christianity, the breasts
and the flesh in general were discouraged from being exposed. The stomach was
considered to be more of an important center of female sexuality, with rounded
bellies being more attractive (Broby-Johansen 131). This was modeled after the
Virgin Mary whose round belly contained the savior (Yalom 40). It wasn't until
the fourteenth century and the Renaissance that this began to change. Explosive
creativity and art occurred despite great famine and disease. As people became
more frivolous, clothing became more revealing, and the neckline lowered to show
cleavage (Latteire 31). In the seventeenth century, the breasts once again
became the predominate center of female attractiveness over the belly. It was
fruitful like the stomach, but more sensual.
It stood as a symbol of power and
wealth at a time when mercantilism was on the rise in Europe (Latteire 32). The
corset, which was previously used to flatten the breasts, was used to push in
the stomach and push out the breasts (Winston). Louis XIV of France's personal
taste was a factor in this, as he demanded lower necklines for all the court
women. He considered it a sign of respect to him and to the Deity (Latteire 33).
After the French Revolution, there was about a decade of naturalism. Romanticism
rejected fashions and norms of the former aristocracy, such as the use of the
powdered wig, which was banned. Independence and freedom of expression were key
and an outpour of emotional awakening occurred. The breasts were popular as
symbols of emotion and naturalism. Breast-feeding regained popularity. In fact,
the French government demanded that women who wanted government support must
nurse their babies (Yalom 113). It was regarded as a civic duty that embraced
the new government and rejected the old regime. In some circles, women's
clothing was nearly transparent with the breasts showing through. Many women
stopped wearing the corset and chose a more natural look (Broby-Johansen 142).
In time, this Romanticism calmed down, and so did clothing and the corset
returned to the scene. In 1839, Jean Wearly patented a machine for making
corsets and set up a factory in France (Winston). Until this time, corsets were
a luxury for the upper classes. Now they were readily produced for a reasonable
price that could be afforded by the masses. The proper display of the breasts
and waist through corsets became an important part of fashion society. Corset
companies began to advertise in fashion magazines. Slowly, it became acceptable
to show pictures of the corsets in magazines. They came in a variety of shapes
and sizes.
There were sleeping corsets, leisure corsets, pregnancy corsets,
nursing corsets, bathing corsets, horseback riding corsets, etc. (Yalom 168) The
English preferred long corsets that extended over the hips while the French
preferred shorter models (Broby-Johansen 183). At the turn of the century, there
was growing opposition to the corset. Doctors blamed the corset for constricting
the ribs and compressing the organs of women. Economist Thorstien Veblen blamed
the corset for the women's dependence on their husbands, as it weaken them so
that they were unfit to work (Yalom 171). In 1893, Marie Tucek patented the
first modern brassiere. It was similar to the brassiere used today in that it
had separate cups for each breast, shoulder straps and a hook in the back, but
it was not until the 1920's that the brassiere replaced the corset as the
garment of choice (Silverman). During World War I, French women began to favor
the more flat-chested look that would later become popular after the war. The
Germans, enemies of the French in the war, responded by promoting a bustier
look. German bra makers advertised that the French brassieres which reduced
breast size were unpatriotic and encouraged people to buy the German brassier
that maximized the breasts (Broby-Johansen 197). Women's roles in the work force
increased over the course of the war. They won the right to vote in 1919 in
America and there was a growing belief that women were able to do almost
anything a man can do. The French flat look gained popularity in the states.
Corsets were no longer used and in many cases, women also did not use the
brassiere (Yalom 184). With their increasingly more equal role, the breast as a
sign of femininity was bided down in some cases, as women gave themselves a more
boyish look to fit their less gender-based roles in society. The legs replaced
the bust as the most attractive female feature in the twenties which in turn
were replaced by the back in the thirties (186).
After the chaos of World War
II, people looked for familiarity and security. The breasts were a sign of
security and once again became popular. The old traditional look of the
hourglass figure was reintroduced (Lattiere 44). Large breasts also were a sign
of prosperity in this time of advance. Brassieres were designed to give a coned,
machine-like, look to the breasts that fit the growing technology of the era
(Silverman). During the rise of motion pictures, women tended to get parts that
fit the stereotypes associated with their body types. Women with larger chests
were viewed as sexual beings: lower class women who used their big busts to
attract a mate, such as Marilyn Monroe in How to Marry a Millionaire. Movie
stars such as Monroe, Brigitte Bardot, and Sophia Loren fit this category.
Small-chested movie stars were a minority that included Katharine Hepburn and
Audrey Hepburn. They were not viewed as sex symbols but as symbols of upper
class sophistication, and wit (Yalom 192). While Marilyn Monroe was type cast as
a golddigger and a bimbo, Katharine Hepburn played such characters as a
missionary and a political activist. The breasts are viewed as symbols of
sexuality, and the modern stereotype of what is sexy is not consistent with the
stereotype of what is considered intelligence. The more bosom, the less brain.
That's the law of nature; that is why the poor miserable females are the way
they are. (Allende 98.) In the sixties and early seventies, America was
undergoing a period of rebellion. People sought to free themselves from the
mores of society, advocating civil rights, free love and naturalism. Many women
gave up using the bra and in certain settings walked topless. The free breast
was symbolic of the free spirits of the young women of the time (Latteier 157).
Women wished to be given more complete social equality as well as celebration of
the differences between men and women. It was during this time that artists such
as singer Helen Reddy showed a more pro-womanhood attitude to their work.
Bra-burning and other extreme measures were used to show women's pride in
themselves and the rejection of the traditional way that sexuality was a
necessary tool for women to obtain power (Latteire 39). When the hippie era
calmed down, the perfection of the body became the ideal. Exercise reshaped the
legs and abdomen, and the use of the wonder-bra and breast implants were used to
perfect the breast (Latteire 235). In 1977, the sports bra was invented as a
practical solution to the demands of the fitness craze of the time. Jogging and
a healthy lifestyle were in style and women needed motion control. (Yalom 180)
Large breasts came back in style in the eighties after over a decade of small
breasts being the fashion. The Wall Street Journal suggested that this was
related to the macho conservatism ushered during the Reagan years (181). Large
breasts emphasized gender differences, going with the trend of male dominated
politics. Breasts are, and have been, an important commercial entity in Western
society. Depending on the fashion of the time, women tried to find various ways
to increase or decrease the size of the bust. Ointments, lotions, and different
recipes were sold to women claiming to improve the size of the breasts (Yalom,
78). None of the treatments worked, as even today, there is no proven way short
of surgery to change the size of the bosom. From the binding of the breasts in
male-dominated Ancient Greece, to the large breasts of the 1980's, the way
society treats the breasts reflects the customs of society at the time. Why is
the breast considered such an important feature of the body? Is it because of
their connection with lactation and the nurturing of infants? Or because of
their sexual nature, as a symbol of femininity and womanhood? Whatever the
reason, they are an important indication of the views of Western society and
will continue to be so in the future.
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